KayaKalp
75 Herrick Street
Parkhurst Building, Suite 105
Beverly, Massachusetts, 01915
Ph. 978.927.6556
Fx. 978.927.9467
Focus: SKIN
Ayurveda in Our Beauty Regimen
In this day and age when a significant emphasis is placed on a holistic approach to health and beauty, and where, nutrition and topical ‘scientifically researched’ plant product application are a part of the healing process of surgical procedures, it is interesting to note that in India, 3500 year ago, the ancient system of Ayurveda, had a multi-faceted approach to healthy living. This system incorporated the use of ‘Plant Derivatives’, ‘Essential oils’, ‘Aromatherapy’, ‘Vegetarianism’, ‘Fasting’, ‘Toxin Elimination’, ‘Yoga’, ‘Massage’, ‘Meditation’, Exercise, Body Morphology, Gem and Color Therapy, all of which seems to be the buzz heard in skin aesthetics today.
Ayurveda literally translated as Life Science, is based on the Vedic (ancient Indian) philosophy of healthy living as prescribed in India’s Rig Veda texts, called the 'Atharvaveda'. This system is acknowledged as the oldest amongst the different streams of practiced medicine in the world today. It is a system of preventive medicine that not only provides remedies for various illnesses but also prescribes an ideal lifestyle to prevent the onset of sickness and disease.
This ‘Science of Life’, although, traditionally passed down from master to disciples by word of mouth, often used an iron pin pen and a palm leaf to note down medical details. Validated through scientific research, today, this knowledge is taught in various Ayurveda Colleges in India where it is considered equivalent to a doctorate of modern medicine. It takes 5 years plus six months of internship to become a graduate doctor of Ayurveda.
Ayurvedic medicine is derived from plants, (extracts, powders and essential oils) but the majority of authentic products are not mass-produced, as Ayurveda treatments are based on the premise that every person has an individualized constitution, and the prescription has to be custom tailored to it.
To understand the Ayurvedic system and how it can apply to skin care, a few of its basic premises need to be kept in mind. At the heart of Ayurveda is the belief that there are three primary life forces in existence:
The 1st is the energy that enables animation and direction. It is believed that life is but a play of forces that are ever changing. As modern science tells us, matter may seem solid, but in fact is a static appearance of innumerable subtle forces. Furthermore, this principle states that hidden in this energy is a sentience or consciousness that gives the power of determination.
The 2nd is the energy that is perceived as light, heat, and radiance. Again, today science tells us that energy as it moves, undergoes transformation and emits light and heat. It is also states that all life emits radiance and has natural warmth.
The 3rd energy is that of cohesion. It is believed that all manifestations have an interlinking unity that moves to a common rhythm, and thus we are intimately connected to all animate and inanimate objects on earth as well as the universe. Combining this with the scientific principle of equal and opposite force, we realize that distant occurrences can affect us and conversely, the simplest of our daily actions can have far reaching effects.
The 3 primary energies are represented in the physical body by the ‘Tridosa’ forces (3 dosas). They support the function of living things and the process of life and death. These 3 biological humors or constitutions are symbolized by air, fire and water.
‘Vata'- Air
that which moves and occupies all the empty spaces and fills the subtle channel between our cell tissue. Increase in vata may result in lightness, coldness, and dryness.
'Pitta' - Fire
that which heats and metabolizes and is responsible for thermoregulation and digestion Increase in pitta may result in hyperacidity, redness/flushness, sourness.
‘Kapha'- Water
that which holds together or connects and is responsible for stability and lubrication (average bodies are 60 % water) Increase in kapha may result in coldness, wateriness and heaviness.
In a healthy body all three are in balance with one another but usually a body will have a predominance of one ‘dosha’ over the other two. Most illnesses arise from the imbalance between either one or two of the doshas, leading to organ malfunction. Skin being our largest organ will also be affected by this imbalance. Identification of the imbalance is aided by the physical body morphology and emotional characteristic of the person.
Furthermore, for a body to stay healthy, not only do the doshas need to function in harmony with each other, but also with the five basic elements of the universe, i.e. Earth, Water, Fire, Air and Ether. Thus seasons and environment dictate what foods should be eaten and what oils and plant extract should be used topically at a given time. Furthermore since various foods are believed to have hot and cold attributes (ref. 3 primal forces), it is deemed essential, not only to keep hot, cold, windy or humid environment in mind but also to eat foods in the right combination. This highly customized system will treat two people suffering from the same ailment with different medicines depending on their individual constitution and life-style.
Ayurveda acknowledges that it is germs that spread infectious diseases. However, a treatment based on the theory of Tridoshas will have an Ayurvedic dose of medicine that seeks to strengthen the body's immune system to fight diseases or infection rather then kill it as say with an antibiotic.
Today in the West, where skin and body rejuvenation and enhancement is concerned, we see increased efforts to incorporate the time tested healing wisdom and therapeutic treatments of Ayurveda with modern cutting edge medical practices. Although this could potentially give a higher level of customization, there are a number of points that US practitioners must consider so as not to compromise patient/client safety as well as their professional credibility.
It is important to keep in mind that the optimal benefits of this multi-faceted treatment approach, requires significant education as reflected by the credential requirement for its medical practice in India. Since most US practitioners will not have the equivalent of an Ayurveda doctorate, they should make sure their resources and references for incorporating portions of such treatments as well as products used come from reliable professionals with the proper credentials to back them.
Also for Ayurvedic based treatments, since the underlying nature of the cause of the problem is the real science involved, addressing the condition of the skin alone would be a symptomatic approach that would, require adjustment on a day-to-day basis.
On the other hand, even though constitutions are a relative constant that give characteristics to the skin of an individual, these also vary depending on factors such as life style, climate, mental state and general health.
Thus for us, as practitioners here, it would be more practical to follow the challenges of the constitution less rigidly
and opt for a prescription that advocates topical treatments with a positive health supporting life style as equal partners.
This can be done by:
- Recognizing body morphologies
- Teaching dietary adjustments that are more conducive to good health
- Encouraging a more stress-free state of mind with yoga etc.
- Having reliable sources for information and products.
- Ensuring that the natural plant based products has an effective concentration.
- Opting for synergistic combinations in products for maximum effectiveness
- Advocating importance of compliance
Smita M. Patel
Clinic Director
KayaKalp Aesthetics
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Focus: SKIN
Smart Sun Protection
The chills of winter are hopefully behind us and we all look forward to the warmth of summer sun. Although most of us have come a long way in understanding the dangers of the sun and the need for sunscreen, it is amazing that even today; otherwise well read, educated individuals continue to believe, what are nothing more than sun protection myths.
e.g.
‘It is perfectly safe to be out in the sun for extended period of time as long as you have sunscreen on’.
‘A golden or dark skinned complexion (Asian Indian) does not require sunscreen’.
In reality whether we are Asian Indians or Caucasian, UV rays play havoc with our skin’s health. Our skin is the largest organ of our body and the first line of defense against Bacteria, Free Radicals and the Environment. Although sunlight does help our bodies produce natural Vitamin D, a natural protectant from osteoporosis and 3 lethal cancers- Breast, Bowel and Prostrate, too much sun leads to ‘photo aging’. This can progress into skin cancers and even melanoma. The fact is our body only needs 5-10 min of sunlight daily for an adequate supply of Vitamin D.
It is unfortunate that those “total block” sunscreens with high Sun Protection Factor (SPF) give us a false sense of safety. It should be understood that the SPF numbers only relate to UV-B ray.
UV-B rays indeed are more powerful than UV-A rays, but the atmosphere filters out most- and only 5% UV-B rays reaches our skin. Furthermore these rays do not penetrate further than the epidermal layer of the skin, but exposure can result in redness and a burning sensation.
UV-A rays on the other hand are far more dangerous for they cannot be adequately filtered out They are the key players in skin cancer. They cause premature aging as they penetrate further into the dermis layer of the skin, injuring the fibroblasts and skin matrix, activating genes in way that destroys collagen and elastin as well as disrupting the normal layering of melanin, our body’s natural sun protectant. The result is loose wrinkled hyper pigmented skin that fast loses its youthful luster.
The organic ‘Parsol’ or Mexoryl variants are good UVA protectant while Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide are the inorganic reflective protectants for both UVA and UVB rays. Until now it was difficult to formulate aesthetically pleasing sunscreens but technological advances have made it possible to micronize the relatively large zinc oxide and titanium dioxide molecules into nanocrystal. So that, today, not only can sunscreens be, non-greasy, non-irritating and non-comedogenic but virtually transparent as well. The ideal formulation affording the best protection would be one that incorporates these qualities with the added benefit of antioxidants such as Vitamin E and C and A, Beta carotene, alpha lipoic to name a few.
No doubt, it is not easy to find a sunscreen that contains each and every protective ingredient in one formulation. However a qualified/ credentialed skin care professional can be a good resource and a great place to start - not only would your skin type and condition be taken into account, but also your lifestyle, which are all important factors in determining an optimal formulation for your skin. Lastly remember that SPF15 blocks 97%, SPF 30 blocks 98% and the best SPF100 % "Total" sunscreen blocks only marginally more UVB rays. The fact remains that 2% of UVB and about 60% of UVA still gets through to damage our skin.
Although we cannot totally change our lifestyle, it would be wise to find a balance between the benefits and the dangers of sun as we work and play.
Smita M. Patel
Clinic Director
KayaKalp Aesthetics
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Focus: SKIN
Essential Oil in Skin Care
Essential oils have been use for over 5000 years in India, Egypt Tibet, Nepal and Middle East and traded and valued like gold. In fact, ancient Indian texts, the Vedas, mention hundreds of aromatic oils /perfumes, even outlining many of their uses. In this century, around 1950, Marguerite Maury, who had been a student of the French aroma therapist, Dr.Jean Valnet, inspired by traditional medicine and ancient practices of India, China and Tibet revived and reinvented special massage techniques with essential oil application along the spinal nerve centers.
As with India’s old Ayurvedic practices, her concept, individualized prescriptions, where the blend of various essential oils were chosen to harmonize with the emotional, mental, physical and spiritual bodies of each person. She believed that it was an important source of healing. Indeed, her clients in search of better looks reported not only improvement in their skin condition, but improvement in their mental state, as well as relief of such things as rheumatic pain and deeper sleep.
Essential oils by nature are volatile and are the most concentrated form of the vital fluid/ essence of the aromatic plants trees or grasses. Depending on the plant, the essence is derived from its bark, bulb, wood, resin, root, rhizome, fruit, flower, leaves, rind or seed. Although mostly extracted by steam distillation, citrus essentials oils are derived by an expression process while flowers such as jasmine and rose are obtained by a cold pressed method. Each of these processes has their advantages and disadvantages and thus affects the quality of the resulting oil.
The quality of an essential oil is also gauged by factors such purity and whether it is processed without additives and chemicals and whether it has been grown organically?
Although a single essential oil is a compound of hundreds of constituents such as alcohols, aldehydes, esters, ketones, oxides, phenols, and terpene, it is believed that it is not the single constituent, but the harmonious synergistic interaction between them that creates the beneficial effect.
Furthermore it is believed that the mode of interaction of the oil to the body is through various channels and pathways. So that when applied to the skin or inhaled via aromatherapy, the essential oil, penetrates the epithelial layer and once absorbed, enters the lymphatic and blood capillary systems, sinuses and lungs. The lymphatic pathways in turn carry the oil directly to the liver and into the blood stream where the circulation makes it possible for the metabolic processes of the various organ, or body tissue to be either sedated or stimulated for a beneficial effect. Some essential oils are released by lung exhalation, while others are filtered through the kidneys affecting the urinary tract. Because of their volatile nature most usually exit the body within 48 hours.
Today essential oils are found in many cosmetic formulations and used widely in aromatherapy. It is important to emphasize here that “fake essential oil” have a chemical composition that are unrelated to the real essential oils and are of little use in a therapy and may well be toxic. Most essential oil authorities believe that effectiveness is governed by quality criteria as noted above. And therein lays some controversy. For instance what does organic means? Does organic only mean that the plants are grown in an environment free from sprays of chemical fertilizers, fungicides and pesticide and that only one type of plant is taken for processing into a clean facility with nothing added except for pure water ? How many facilities use pure water without anything added these days and what surety is there that chemicals from a neighboring farm have not wind blown onto the “organic” crop of plants?
In USA, cosmetics and drugs are both under FDA jurisdiction and have different legal requirement. Generally a claim that a perfume’s aroma makes a person feel more attractive does not require a pre-market approval but a claim that it aids sleeping, reduce pain, improve a disease or condition does require approval by the FDA. Thus, so far, there is little in approved results telling us which components in the various essential oil are the active ingredients and what their precise synergistic effect they have are on the body.
We do know that there are a number of chemicals found naturally in essential oils that are in such tiny amounts that they can be identified but not measured. Furthermore these trace elements may well be the major players in the change effecting process. If the homoeopathic principle of less is more is right then they may be more important than the majority chemical and will only be present if the substance is entirely natural. The practice of producing/manufacture fake oils/perfumes posing as essential oils is a serious problem because the chemical composition of fake oil may be completely unrelated to the real essential oil and are of little use in a therapy and may well be quite toxic.
While cosmetics and drugs both are under FDA's jurisdiction, the legal requirements applying to them differ. A claim that a perfume's aroma makes a person feel more attractive, in general, is a cosmetic claim not requiring FDA approval before a product is sold. But if someone tries to market a scent suggesting effectiveness as an aid in quitting smoking, as a sleeping aid, or to treat or prevent any other condition or disease, or otherwise affect the body's structure or function, such a claim may cause the product to be regulated as a drug, requiring premarket approval. The agency makes judgments on a case-by-case basis.
Smita M. Patel
Clinic Director
KayaKalp Aesthetics
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Focus: SKIN
Diets Are Not Just For Slimming
It seems today that, wherever we turn, we are inundated by yet another “latest” in that wonder cream/serum with a “break through” ingredient that will retain or return the youthful luminosity to our skin. The fact is that bottled remedies are only a part of the solution to healthy vibrant skin. Actually our body relies on synergies and balances of many things to make it as finely tuned as it is. Having accepted that the aging process is a part of being alive, if we want to make a difference in the way we look - no matter what age we are - we need to understand the way this process works, as it applies to our skin.
Experts believe that one of the main causes of the aging has to do with unstable negatively charged oxygen molecules known as “Free Radicals”. They are generated externally by such things as UV sun damage and pollutants and internally by metabolism and digestion. As these molecules try to stabilize, by latching onto other molecules, a self perpetuating path of destruction and inflammation is created, resulting in the aging process. Factors such as UV ray exposure and consumption of foods high in sugar, are the accelerators of free radical development. Our skins, high in rich lipids, proteins and DNA, unfortunately are highly susceptible to destruction by these free radicals.
Certainly we do have neutralizing mechanisms in our bodies that have the natural ability to produce antioxidants to combat free radicals. But an adjustment in our nutrition and lifestyle can take us much further in protecting us against free radical destructive activity and help us be the best we can at our particular age.
There are many studies that show the beneficial properties of the various antioxidants that are present naturally in our skin as well as in certain foods.
Most of us have heard of the ant oxidative activity of Beta Carotene and its link to healthy skin. It is a carotenoid found in the skin, and also found in yellow orange and green leafy fruits and vegetable.
Lycopene, found in watermelon, guava, pink grapefruit and tomatoes, is another powerhouse carotenoid. Interestingly cooked tomatoes such as tomato paste or juice is a better source of this antioxidant than raw tomatoes, for it has been shown that heat processing of tomatoes increases Lycopene's bioavailability. Linked to the protection of skin’s lipids, proteins and DNA against oxidative damage, it may not be enough to block direct UV radiation, but can help reduce the effects of indirect light such as that coming through glass windows.
Then there is Lutein which has been shown to inhibit our auto immune response as well as being linked to healthy eyes. Found in green leafy vegetables such as kale and spinach, corn and egg yolks, it improves skin hydration and elasticity while inhibiting cutaneous inflammation due to UV light exposure.
Flavonoids such as Rutin and Quercetin, both found in apples and blueberries, have been shown to have potent antioxidant and gene-regulatory activity. They increase our blood circulation at the sub epidermal level and improve the skin’s general texture and appearance.
The next in our skins protective arsenal are the various vitamins. Found in green leafy vegetables, whole grains, nuts, soy bean, salmon, and most vegetable oils, Vitamin E is not only one of the best sources of antioxidants, it is also abundant in the skin. Vitamin A and its derivatives act not only as antioxidants but have the ability to increase levels of Vitamin E and also activate specific genes and proteins. The Vitamin B family for its part enhances our skin complexion by speeding up the skin cell renewal process. Vitamin C plays a role in collagen renewal, body tissue repair and the prevention of nitrates conversion into cancer causing substance.
Thus our diets should always have a variety of colorful fruits and vegetables but an avoidance of Carbohydrate Sugars found in sodas, cookies, cakes and white breads, ensuring that our blood is not deluged with a sticky sugar molecule that attacks the skin collagen causing the skin fibers to be stiff, inflexible, wrinkled and definitely dull looking
Last but not least, our body requirement for a fine tuned balance, are the minerals such as Copper, Zinc and Selenium that work in conjunction with vitamins to prevent free radical damage.
Although we get some benefit from each and every antioxidant, it is important to keep in mind that the optimal benefit is attained by the synergies of all of them working together. Furthermore to ensure that all of these nutrients reach our skins, drinking about 8 glasses of water per day should be the rule of thumb.
As far as fats are concerned, experts tell us to avoid Saturated Fats, found in animal products such as meat, poultry, butter and whole fat milk as well as the Trans-Fats found in frozen dinners chips, cookies and crackers. The desirable fats are the Polyunsaturated fats, found in fish oil and flax seed oil, and Monosaturated fats, found in olive oil and nuts. They function as building blocks for healthy cell membrane and help us maintain skin hydration.
With regards to lifestyle changes, the need to protect against the sun has been enumerated upon (ref: Lokvani E-Magazine June 15’ 06- Smart Sun Protection). Stress it seems is part and parcel of modern day living but managing that stress is important, for it definitely leaves a tell tale sign on our skin. In tense situations, our body has a helpful hormonal response in the release of elevated levels of cortisol, giving us that extra energy needed to act. However, long term response to elevated cortisol levels results in an oxidation process that again unleashes free radicals.
So how can we help ourselves given that for most of us stress, to a greater or lesser extent is a part of our lives? Most of us are familiar with the benefits of exercise and the practice of Yoga for a healthy flexible body. But did you know that studies have shown that, not only the advanced, but even beginner Yoga practitioners can reduce the cortisol level in their bodies?
Another helpful thing is the drinking of green tea because it contains Theanine which is not only a non sedative, de-stressing, anxiety-relieving relaxant but also contains ant oxidative Polyphenols. These polyphenols combat those free radicals produced by elevated levels of cortisol. In fact it has been noted that a cup of green tea produces more ant oxidative activity than even a serving of broccoli spinach or carrots. Polyphenols can also be found in Pomegranates, Blueberry Leaf, Olive Leaf and Rosemary.
The destructiveness of smoking and its effects on our lungs is well documented but it is also an opponent of good skin health for it is known that nicotine thus infused, destroys vitamin C and collagen synthesis causing vasoconstriction, resulting in blocking off oxygen to the skin.
Indeed a healthy beautiful skin is not a question of one cream, one food item diet or even an obsession with exercise. What is required is a multi directional approach that includes smart food choices, lifestyle adjustments and by all means the consistent application of topicals that are well researched formulations of ingredients which are not only in synergy with one another but are in appropriate concentrations.
To live is to age, but - To live with balances means to age slowly and beautifully.
Smita M Patel
Clinic Director
KayaKalp Aesthetics
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Focus: SKIN
Mineral Makeup
Mineral makeup seems finally to have come of age. Everywhere we turn, yet another company is touting” their latest breakthrough“. However this "new" makeup discovery has been around for quite a few years. Unlike traditional products, mineral makeup, strictly speaking should contain no perfumes, talc, alcohol, dyes, mineral oil or preservatives. No wonder it receives such a high approval rating from those in skin therapy. However not all mineral makeups are created equal.
Since there are many half truths and partial fact floating around, it is natural that many questions arise in the mind. How do the various brands differ? Is one brand better for you than another and why? Are mineral make-ups different from those powders and foundations that we have used in the past?
Actually, despite different brand names and marketing strategies, most mineral makeups are almost the same. Most of the formulations include ingredients such as micronized titanium dioxide, micronized zinc oxide, iron oxide, silk mica, hydrated silica, and bismuth oxychloride. Sometimes further additions of secondary ingredients are included, such as vitamins, extra skin softeners or stronger pigments to neutralize skin tone.
You may know micronized titanium dioxide, from the sunscreen that you use for this ingredient protects the skin from sunlight because the white mineral's crystalline structure naturally reflects and defuses the sun's harmful rays. Micronized zinc oxide is also a protectant from the sun and combines with the micronized titanium dioxide in reflecting the sunlight's dangerous UVA and UVB rays.
Iron oxide is found in nature. Its natural red, orange and yellow pigment hues blend well into flesh tones for mineral foundations. Silk mica and hydrated silica are added to the formulation to soften and blend the mineral compounds giving a smooth texture and making the formulation suitable for application on the skin.
Chemically resembling arsenic and antimony, Bismuth occurs very rarely in nature and of all the heavy elements, is the only one that is non toxic. Apart from its binding quality, its molecular make up gives it a shiny white opalescence making it highly refractive and ideal for camouflaging fine wrinkles and uneven skin tone.
Mineral makeup can camouflage a host of skin concerns. Since mineral makeup contains no irritating dyes or perfumes, people prone to allergies or with sensitive skin will find it an ideal makeup for their skin.. The acne-prone will find mineral makeup is organic, hypoallergenic and oil free that does not clog pores like some conventional cosmetics as long as there are no talc, bismuth oxychloride or other harmful fillers in the formulation.
Bismuth Oxychloride containing formulations should be used with caution by those with acne prone or sensitive skins. For the acne prone oily skins, the buffing application technique required to ensure that the formulation stays on the face forces the powder into the pore thereby perhaps clogging it if it is not cleansed thoroughly. As far as sensitive skins are concerned, it has been reported that some have becomes itchy and irritated after application of bismuth oxychloride containing mineral formulations
Unlike traditional cosmetics, mineral foundations, is able to provide sheer to full coverage. There are a number of ways to apply this make up. A light, sheer finish can be accomplished by moving the applicator brush in small circles on the face. For more opaque texture it can be applied in layers with a damp sponge, resembling liquid foundation application.
Smita M. Patel
Clinic Director
KayaKalp Aesthetics
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